• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

John Deere 230 LC Starter Problems

rmllarue91

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
701
Location
northeast pa
Occupation
field technician
Why shimmy yes and I'm sure you've seen were they have tried usually looks like stray red wires run out side cab tied around mirrors and head in to a rainbow colored rats nest of other wires fuses tap maybe a pair of wire strippers they left behind and it looks like all that was shot with target load shot gun shells because the forgot what the new wires were added for lol
 

Shimmy1

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
4,439
Location
North Dakota
My FAVORITE are those godforsaken blue three-way taps that push a cutter down into wire? Those things should be illegal. And the best part?? Always seem to be used in the sill harness on a trailer!! When they're done "fixing" they might as well take a side cutter and just start cutting. Get it over with.
 

rmllarue91

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
701
Location
northeast pa
Occupation
field technician
Haha funny you mentioned them did some work for a farmer ( not relative ) but he loved them order them by the bag along with these uninsulated clips for routing wire they worked great Untill the wire thought about moving and would short out. Wanted me to wire in starting system on 10 hp motor with 14 gauge wire.
 

707

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
85
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Occupation
Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
red/white : originates at keyswitch as red/black changes to r/w after load dump relay nothing else in that circuit other than another diode(battery relay diode) should be somewhere close the battery relay i think. check those diodes. if everything checks out, check those diodes. if your monitor is not lit, the diode has failed. it powers the load dump relay which should be the first relay on the left in the relay block.
 

JWJDM

Active Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
25
Location
east coast
You said alternator was replaced recently. Try removing wires from alternator and see if it start. Machine uses alternator to prevent starting while running. Diode trio in alternator may have failed and will prevent it from starting thinking engine is running. Have same problem recently with 120 & 160 excavators. Just a thought.
 

707

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
85
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Occupation
Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
Start with JWJDM's suggestion first because it is infact a probable cause.
 

707

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
85
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Occupation
Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
also when you testing the battery relay did you have power at the red/white wire?
 

707

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
85
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Occupation
Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
the load dump diode is located inside the cab around the fuse panel area. it should be a cluster of 5 although you may not see all five. they are foal plugs about an inch in length and 1/4 inch in width, which little black stubs (diodes) sticking out of them. it might be easier to remove the rear plastics to get in around the fuse and relay blocks. check all of the diodes should only beep one way when testing with multimeter. one way being when you with the leads. diodes and wiring as follows.
V1— Battery Relay Diode (Blk and
Red/Wht)
V2— Load Dump Relay Diode
(Red/Blk and Red/Wht)
V3— Auxiliary Power Diode
(Blk and Red)
V4— Starter Relay Diode (Yel/Grn
and Blk/Wht)
V5— Windshield Wiper Relay
Diode (Blu/Blk and Blu/Red)
V8— Starting Aid Diode (Blk and
Blk/Red)
 

707

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
85
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Occupation
Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
do you have power out on red/blk wire of your keyswitch? if so locate the diode. test for continuity from keyswitch to diode. test diode if wiring ok. you will have to remove the plastic behind the seat for access. if diode is ok move to relay k15 which is the alternator relay, mounted at the very back by itself on the wall (only viewed with platsics off). check for power at pin 87. you will have power at 87 if your dash is lit. you can skip this one if you like. go to pin 5 on the load dump relay k1 (last one on the right bank). you should have power. its a straight shot the battery relay after this. do check v1 however. I have a schematic for this but I can not post or email it to you just yet. should be able to get it up by tomorrow morning.
 

jlittle2212

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
221
Location
The Mountains
do you have power out on red/blk wire of your keyswitch? if so locate the diode. test for continuity from keyswitch to diode. test diode if wiring ok. you will have to remove the plastic behind the seat for access. if diode is ok move to relay k15 which is the alternator relay, mounted at the very back by itself on the wall (only viewed with platsics off). check for power at pin 87. you will have power at 87 if your dash is lit. you can skip this one if you like. go to pin 5 on the load dump relay k1 (last one on the right bank). you should have power. its a straight shot the battery relay after this. do check v1 however. I have a schematic for this but I can not post or email it to you just yet. should be able to get it up by tomorrow morning.

Wow, you are awesome.. I am not going to be around the machine tomorrow. Should be Saturday though.

The schematic would be a great help!!! :notworthy

Great thread and awesome help guys! Thanks to everyone who has chimed in so far!
 

jlittle2212

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
221
Location
The Mountains
do you have power out on red/blk wire of your keyswitch? if so locate the diode. test for continuity from keyswitch to diode. test diode if wiring ok. you will have to remove the plastic behind the seat for access. if diode is ok move to relay k15 which is the alternator relay, mounted at the very back by itself on the wall (only viewed with platsics off). check for power at pin 87. you will have power at 87 if your dash is lit. you can skip this one if you like. go to pin 5 on the load dump relay k1 (last one on the right bank). you should have power. its a straight shot the battery relay after this. do check v1 however. I have a schematic for this but I can not post or email it to you just yet. should be able to get it up by tomorrow morning.

I did indeed have two diodes bad! Replaced both, cranked over and started perfectly! Thanks everyone for your help! Sorry it was so complicated! :usa
 
Top